Andrew Swift enjoys a winter walk from Widcombe to Lyncombe Vale and Fox Hill
The December walk – designed either to blow the cobwebs away or to provide a break from the frenzy of the festive season – is a short, but by no means undemanding, country walk starting out from Widcombe.
It starts by exploring Lyncombe Vale, which in the 18th century was home to several pleasure gardens. From there the route crosses fields on the slopes of Fox Hill before heading back across the valley to take in panoramic views of the city from Alexandra Park. Then, after following a newly-restored footpath through the woods below Beechen Cliff, it is back to Widcombe, where there is a choice of pubs and cafés.
A word of warning – although less than four miles long and on the edge of the city, this walk has several steep, muddy and potentially slippery sections, along with scrubby fields and steps, so good footwear is essential. A gentle stroll through manicured countryside this is not, but well-shod walkers – not to mention dogs and lively children – should find it well worthwhile. The route can be found on OS Explorer map 155 and should take around two hours to walk.
DIRECTIONS
Head to Widcombe and turn up Prior Park Road beside the White Hart Inn. After 75m, turn right up by Prior Park Cottages and left in front of Prior Park Buildings, alongside the Lyn Brook. At the end, carry on along Prior Park Road.
After passing a car dealership occupying the former Upper Widcombe Mill on the left, turn right along Lyncombe Vale. This takes you past the former Bagatelle pleasure gardens – also known, somewhat suggestively, as Cupid’s Gardens – on the right. Keep to the left-hand pavement along Lyncombe Vale and you will soon find yourself high above the road, with the Lyn Brook – here converted to a millstream for Upper Widcombe Mill – burbling along beside you. Jane Austen walked along this ‘raised narrow footpath’ in May 1801 and described the scenery as ‘very beautiful’.
After the road rises to meet the pavement, the brook disappears into a culvert by Lyncombe Vale Farm. Just beyond a rustic lodge are the gates of Lyncombe House, now the Paragon School, but originally Lyncombe Spa, whose chalybeate spring once attracted visitors seeking a restful alternative to the hustle and bustle of Bath’s Pump Room.
Carry on along the road and at the T junction bear left along Lyncombe Vale Road, passing Lyncombe House. A little further on, as you pass the drive to a house called Westward, look to the right to see a large house on the hill above. Now called Lyncombe Court, it was once known as King James’s Palace, due to the story that King James II visited Lyncombe Vale when he came to Bath in 1687. In the late 18th century it was surrounded by pleasure gardens where firework displays, concerts and public breakfasts were held.
A few metres further on, follow a footpath sign up steps on the left. After a crosspath, continue up more steps before following the path as it curves left alongside a fence. When you come to a bridge over the trackbed of the Somerset & Dorset Railway – now the Two Tunnels Path – turn right across it. After going through a gate, follow a track bearing slightly to the left up a field where dogs need to be kept on a lead, as there may be sheep.
Go through a gate at the top and turn left along a lane. After 150m, when you come to a gatepost for Foxhill Grove, turn right uphill. After another 150m, turn right along a footpath past the back of Foxhill Grove Farm. Carry on with the fence on your right along a well-walked track and continue in the same direction through a scrubby field. After 200m, as the track curves right into a copse, views of Lansdown and Kelston Round Hill open up ahead.
Continue in roughly the same direction through another scrubby field. After 150m, when the path forks, bear right and carry on through the remains of an old kissing gate (KG). Carry on down a broad path with widely-spaced steps beside a wall, behind which you can glimpse the baronial Gothic splendour of Entry Hill House.
After passing some magnificent beeches, carry on down into Lyncombe Vale. Continue along a lane for a few metres, before turning right to follow a footpath sign by a house called Lynden. After 150m, you will see, through a fence ahead, the Lyn Brook issuing from a culvert. Carry on between fences and after 75m, when you come to another path, turn left up it.
Lyncombe Court, once known as King James’ Palace
As the path climbs out of the valley, it gives way to ever steeper steps. At the top turn right along Greenway Lane. After 100m, go through a KG on the left and bear right through playing fields. The circular building behind the wall a little way along on the left, built as a Georgian summerhouse, is believed to have been used as a synagogue in the late 19th century. At the end of the field, go through a gap in the hedge and a KG. Carry on through a field and follow a track as it curves left alongside a fence to emerge in another field with views.
Go through a KG at end and turn left up a path into Alexandra Park where a viewing platform overlooks the city, and again you will find extensive views over Bath. Carry on along a path at the edge of the escarpment, which, after 150m, leaves the park to continue past the backs of houses. At the end turn right down steps.
Carry on down a path and, after more steps, turn right into Magdalen Gardens, where volunteers have effected an extraordinary transformation of this long neglected spot. Opposite is St Mary Magdalen Chapel, which had its origins in a leper hospital founded in the 12th century.
At the end of the park, go up a short flight of steps and continue along a path. After crossing another path, carry on through the woods, past graffiti-covered walls of ruined cottages and a disintegrating World War Two air raid shelter higher up. Eventually the path leads down steps. At the bottom, head across to a large house on the far side of a patch of grass and turn right down the road. Turn left down Lyncombe Hill at the end and right at the bottom, where the pubs and cafés of Widcombe await.
Level of challenge: steep and potentially slippery sections, with several flights of steps and it may be muddy.
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