Walk: Going off the beaten track in Wells

Andrew Swift goes off the beaten track in Wells and discovers a hidden valley, a restored orchard and a buddle house, once used for smelting

Wells may be England’s smallest city, but it is one of its most fascinating. Vibrant and architecturally impressive, it has a wealth of hidden corners where the spirit of the Middle Ages seems to linger. It is also a place which richly rewards repeated visits, for, although its most celebrated attractions are well known, others take a little more time – and effort.

Starting in the heart of the city, this walk sets out on a journey of discovery, exploring a hidden valley deep in the heart of Mendip and following a turnpike road abandoned almost two centuries ago, before visiting an old orchard being restored to its former glory and a 19th-century arboretum in a steep-sided combe. There is the option of visiting a magnificent terraced garden high above the city, with views over the Vale of Avalon.

Although six miles long, this walk is not for the faint-hearted. The track through that hidden valley, known as Biddlecombe, is not only steep – climbing over 200m – but rocky, narrow and muddy. But, if you decide that its charms are not for you, there is still the option of visiting the garden and arboretum, where you could easily spend a leisurely afternoon – details of how to find them are on the opposite page.

For the full walk, however, go through the archway at the east end of the Market Place (ST551458) and turn right alongside the moat of the Bishop’s Palace. After 150m, bear left alongside the moat, carry on and, after crossing a road, turn right and then left along a rough lane past Tor Hill.

After 500m, carry on as the lane dwindles to a permissive cycleway. After 1,000m go through a gate, cross the main road, go through the metal gate opposite and bear right through a handgate (ST567462). Turn left to follow a track alongside the fence for a few metres, and continue as it curves right through luxuriant vegetation into Biddlecombe.

After following the left bank of the stream for about 650m, the track crosses – via a tree trunk bridge or boulders – to the right bank. The track here is particularly rocky, with several fallen trees, but soon crosses back to the left bank, which you follow for the rest of the way up Biddlecombe.

Eventually, on the opposite bank, you will find a picnic area and a small stone structure overrun with vegetation (ST571481). This is a buddle house, in which lead slag was prepared for smelting. Having grown ruinous, it was restored by Herbert Balch, a local man who founded Wells Museum.

Carry on along the left bank of the stream, climbing through woods. After crossing the stream, the track passes a red-brick waterworks building (ST569484). Just beyond it, squeeze past a metal gate and turn left up a footpath into a field. Keep to the left-hand hedge and go through a gate at the top. Ahead of you is Penn Hill transmitter, erected in 1967. Its 281m mast is apparently the tallest structure in the south west.A huddle house where lead slag was prepared for smelting

Cross the main road with care and bear left along the drive to Penn Hill Farm (ST569488). This is part of the old turnpike road from Bath to Wells, abandoned in favour of a less steeply graded alternative in 1824. Carry straight on along the bridleway as the drive to Penn Hill Farm swings right, and tarmac gives way to a surface little changed for almost two centuries. Continue as the bridleway grows ever steeper and narrower, but, just before it rejoins the main road, cross a stile on the right and follow a track across a field (ST555471).

Cross a stile in the far corner, turn left along a track beside a wall, and, after crossing another stile, you come to the hamlet of Walcombe. Turn right along the lane, follow it as it curves gently uphill and after 100m, go through a wooden handgate on the left (beside a five-bar gate) to follow a trail through an old orchard which is being restored by replanting, careful pruning and management of traditional varieties of apple. At the end of the orchard, go through a handgate into Milton Combe (ST549469).

If you want to visit Milton Lodge Gardens, turn right through a metal gate and right up a lane for 75m. Otherwise, turn left and, after crossing an ornamental bridge, turn right to follow a path down a narrow combe, which eventually opens out into the tree-fringed lawns of Milton Combe Arboretum. Laid out in the early 19th century by the owners of Milton Lodge, it is still privately owned, but is open to the public from April to October.

At the end, go through a gate, cross the main road and turn right for a few metres before turning left along College Road. Carry straight on until you come to a T junction, where a right turn leads through an archway into Cathedral Green. Turn left past the west front of the cathedral and go through another archway to return to the Market Place.

If you only want to visit Milton Combe Arboretum and Milton Lodge Gardens, you will find the entrance to Milton Combe at the bottom of Bristol Hill, opposite the end of College Road (ST550464). (Do not worry about the ‘private garden’ sign – it is open to the public from April to October.) Head up through the arboretum and at the top go through a handgate on the left into the orchard. Follow a track up through the orchard, go through a gate at the top and turn left along a lane. When the lane forks, bear left, and at the end carry straight on into Milton Lodge. After visiting the gardens, you can either follow a footpath directly back down into Wells or retrace your steps through the arboretum.

Andrew Swift is the author of On Foot in Bath: Fifteen Walks Around a World Heritage City and co-author, with Kirsten Elliot, of Ghost Signs of Bath.

FACT FILE

Length of walk: 6 miles

Approximate time: 3 hours

Level of challenge: Stout footwear is needed for the climb through Biddlecombe, which can be challenging, especially in wet weather. Sheep are likely to be encountered in the fields and orchard.

Map: OS Explorer 141

Information: Milton Combe is open from April to October (free entry; dogs allowed). Milton Lodge Gardens are open on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Sundays between 2pm and 5pm to the end of October (adults £5; children under 14 free; no dogs allowed).

Featured image: Milton Lodge Gardens